The base of the chest was intended from the start to be simple. My wife didn’t want any feet, openings, or anything of the kind. She just wanted a simple base or skirt of the type you’d find on a tool chest. And what mama wants, mama gets. Besides, what could be easier?
Having read Christopher Schwarz’s The Anarchist’s Tool Chest, I chose to dovetail the base, rather than using miter joints. This chest would sit on carpet at the foot of the bed, and be dragged back and forth when vacuuming. Due to this, I felt the extra strength of dovetails would be worth the trouble. There’s no point in going into the details of cutting through-dovetails – that has been covered by others ad nauseum. I will, however, cover my technique for getting tight-fitting wrap-arounds with dovetails in my next article.
I decided on cutting my base 3 1/2″ wide. This was done by the scientific approach of laying different widths of wood up against the bottom of the chest and, with my wife’s input, deciding which one looked best. Once the dovetails were cut, the same approach was used to determine how far the base should overlap the bottom of the chest. We settled on a 2 7/8″ reveal before applying the cove molding. Yes, that’s almost the entire width of the frame. However, there are still the bottom boards that project below the frame to be taken into consideration.
I cut internal supports for the chest from whatever plywood was handy around the shop, and believe me, my pile is as bad as anyone’s. After ripping to width, they were glued and brad-nailed into place. As you can see, there’s still an adequate amount of recess to make everything secure.
Then, the dovetails were glued together around the chest, and the base was attached to the bottom boards with pocket screws. As we know, in cabinet construction, there’s primary wood, and secondary wood. But, as the above picture shows, there’s also tertiary wood. This is one case where your ugliest plywood is perfectly acceptable.
Here you can see the base fully assembled with the dovetails planed down. The construction, as it stands, is perfectly acceptable. However, there’s a certain starkness to it, as though something is missing.
That’s where the molding comes in. It adds that needed transition, and harmonizes with the smaller cove molding around the panels. If I had been using a clear finish, I would have used 23 gauge pins. However, a painted finish allowed the use of spackling compound, so I stuck with the bigger brad nails and glue.
That finishes the body of the blanket chest! Now, it’s time to turn my attention back to the lid. Stay tuned!